![]() ![]() I've tried a few Alumicon connectors but they take a lot of space in the box and basically add more connection points to fail. Those guys are pretty fussy about their electronics and its something that I guarantee you will run into in your future.As I prepare to remedy my parent's 1965 home's aluminum wiring I have investigated Copalum and Alumicon. Since you are in an engineering program, I would recommend that you look up the Military Spec on how to do the job. "Faulty wiring" sounds like a catch-all phrase that might include "poor circuit design" and a host of other poorly executed electrical systems.ĭid they really have several cases where the wires actually failed at a splice point? Yeah there are good, better and best practices to making a soldered joint, but it's not that hard to do, and even "good" should do the job for a reasonable time. I'd love to have more opinions as this seems to have been the teams breaking point for the past several years. Also, I found that the NASA standard involves soldering the connection.Īnyways, I'm ranting, and I may have answered my own question. However, I have heard some people claim that soldering is not the way to go, and my team members had loosely agreed ,"No soldering this year." I think I can convince them to allow soldering, and I feel that soldering is the way to go, but I am open to other viewpoints. My question is, how do you guys do your wiring? My father always taught me to use butt connectors, solder, and then a shrink sleeve similar to this picture: They have asked me to do the wire splices, since I seem to have the most experience with it. They have lost several times in the past because of faulty wiring. I recently gotten involved with the Formula SAE team at my school. I have also had good luck with uninsulated butt splices covered with shrink wrap. I got some, my only gripe is the shrink wrap is somewhat thicker than the Wurth etc high priced ones. Typically butt splices with shrink wrap are stupid overpriced, but Harbor Freight has them now. ![]() No weather seal, the connector 'guillotines' the conductor and that lowers the wire's amp capacity, that can create a 'hot spot' then possibly a fire. These will get you through in a pinch but are not my first choice. The cheapie hard shelled ones sold at Wal Mart etc are complete garbage as are those Scotchloks. Sometimes the only realistic repair is butt splices. You had to make sure the splice was no longer at the bottom of the drip loop. The fix was to split open the cover, cut the wires far enough back to get past the corrosion, solder and shrink wrap all the repair wires and then wrap the harness back up. I also have seen the effect of an improperly positioned splice, Toyota 22RE pickups and 4Runners from the mid 80's to the mid 90's had a 4 way splice in the engine harness that was at the lowest point of the engine harness 'drip loop' water would get inside the harness and corrode the splice causing random/intermittent misfires. If any connection is done properly and not positioned in an area prone to flexing it should last the life of the vehicle I have split open 25 year old rotary engine harnesses that are still shiny and new looking inside. ![]() The real reason OE harnesses are crimped and not soldered is speed of assembly more than anything else if you stop and look critically at how a car is assembled it's all to make it faster to assemble, everything else is secondary. The big thing to remember is that the work piece (wire conductor) is hot enough for the solder to flow into the wire. Many people are mystified by soldering, it's actually very simple. I'm a big believer in soldered and shrink wrapped connections for my stuff and use something similar to the Western Union/NASA splice shown earlier. ![]()
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